The Mountain's Call
Motivation
First, it started with nursery, school, college and then university. Ah, half of my life was gone with academic books and rules. At the end of the highest degree in academia, I somehow started feeling that I wasted my life in here and was clueless about my future after my degree. It is very unusual, at my age, to not to have a set goal. Too many questions, enquiries and advice were irritating me every day. I was not in a whirlpool of thoughts or mid-life crisis, but I was wondering whether this is what life is? - grades, jobs, wedding and kids. It seemed like a pattern set by the society which is streamlined from birth to death. If anyone doesn't follow this- then there's something wrong with that person. In PhD, I had developed a particular layer of skin which responds to nothing. Hence, I was happy. I happily rejected a job offer and an interview call after my exams.
I just wanted to get rid of this cycle and see what happens. After having a discussion with family and friends, I decided to return home and think about what to do next. I wanted to travel without any purpose. Without deciding where to travel, I left University two weeks after my exam to home. South India, Uttarakhand, Sri Lanka, Cambodia and Bali were in my list.
Something was missing in life. I started looking for an Indian map to visit places. Accidently, on the right top, I saw something - NEPAL. Yes, the first thing that came to my mind was SNOW - The Himalayas, The Everest. I have never touched snow in my life. Snow fascinated me many times, and something was calling me from The mighty Himalayan mountains for the past seven years [Note: Himalayan mountains do call - I have heard it from so many people]. I never gathered enough strength to listen and respond to that voice for so many years. This time I started searching for options and I found a trek for 14 days - The Mount Everest Base Camp (EBC). It is a dream place to visit for many people around the world. Visiting the tallest, mightiest and beautiful mountain in the world - The Everest.
Finances
The EBC is considered to be one of the toughest treks in the world. This trek longs for 12 days covering approximately 130-150 kilometre in length and 5364 m altitude. To be precise. EBC is at 5364 m altitude, and Mt Everest summit is at 8848 m. Both are different. Climbing Mt Everest to its peak requires mountaineering training, and it costs around $50-60000. Whereas, EBC costs ~ $1400 for foreigners and ~INR 70,000 for Indians + insurance (~INR 7000-12000) which covers medical evacuation up to 6000 m altitude by Helicopters which regular travel insurance doesn't cover. Other than this, return flights to Kathmandu + tea/snacks cost during the trek (INR 10-15000) + Tip to porters and guides (~10% of the package, i.e., INR 7-8000). The total cost could be around 1.2-1.3 lakh for Indian citizens. There are many tour operators (>2000) who do this with guides and porters. Porters carry ~10 kg of your luggage (one need to put their items in Duffle bags provided), and you need to be able to carry ~3-5 kg in a daypack.
The Truth
EBC can be done by anyone who's moderately fit and willing to do it. EBC challenges you physically, mentally and emotionally. I forgot to mention, Financially as well. As a PhD student, investing 1.2 L on a trek is possible. If you know how to save money. It is a madness, I know but, trust me it is worth spending so much money and time in the Himalayas rather than crying for the job and post-doc position. I follow two rules in my life which my friend said, "No one ever became rich by saving the money".
Second is, remembering one of the stories of Swami Ramakrishna Paramahamsa: He says to one of his disciples, "Even before your birth God has arranged a portion of food for you in the form of mother's milk and even beggar gets at least one meal a day. He will never let anyone die without food and water. Minimum requirements are already met and arranged by him. What you chose to become understanding this is your choice."
Itinerary
Here is how the schedule would look for the trek (Provided by my tour operator Himalayan Wonders).
Day 1 Kathmandu: Arrival Day
Day 2 Kathmandu / Ramecchap and Lukla ( Trek Start )
Day 3 Phakding to Namche Bazaar
Day 4 Namche Bazaar: Rest And Acclimatization Day
Day 5 Namche Bazaar To To Phortse
Day 6 Phortse to Dingboche
Day 7 Dingboche: Rest And Acclimatization Day
Day 8 Dingboche to Lobuche
Day 9 Lobuche to Gorakshep And EBC, EBC To Gorekshep
Day 10 Gorekshep to Kalapathar And Pheriche Or Panboche
Day 11 Pheriche Or Panboche To Namche
Day 12 Namche to Phakding And Lukla ( Trek End )
Day 13 Lukla To Kathmandu Flight, Overnight in Kathmandu
Day 14 Kathmandu Departure
On an average one can expect 7-12 km of the trek a day (130-150 km in total) and 400-700 m of ascending a day (maximum up to 5364 m) with unpredictable, harsh weather conditions.
People
Throughout the trek, I never had any kind of bad experience with people. They're helpful, kind and humble.
Food
There's no scarcity for vegetarian food throughout the trek. Dal Bhat, Momos, Macroni, Noodles (Chowmin and Soup), fried rice (Veg, Egg and Chicken), Egg dishes and few more. It is suggested to stick to vegetarian and egg menus as there are no proper storage set-ups for meat. When one opts a tour package, it includes Morning breakfast + one hot drink, Lunch + one hot drink and Dinner + one Hot drink. In between a day, other than 3 regular meals, one needs to pay for Hot drink (Tea, Coffee, Hot Lemon Ginger with Honey and so on). With altitude prices of these drinks goes up to maximum to NPR 300-400.
Water
Coldwater is free throughout the trek except at Gorakshep where one needs to pay as there is a scarcity of water at 5180 m. Boiling water costs NPR 150-250 per L. Hot shower costs as well say NPR 300-500.
Tablets
Water purification tablets should be used for every L of water for safety. Many people use Diamox tablets to get rid of altitude sickness.
Teahouses
Decent accommodations are provided at Tea Houses. No heaters are available at tea houses. One must and should carry sleeping bags to sleep. However, bed and bedsheets are provided but are not sufficient.
Toilets
Toilets are there in every tea houses but water? Its a factor of luck whether one gets water or ice. Toilet paper and sanitiser is a must. Even though water is available, one doesn't dare to touch it as water is damn cold.
Phone network and Wifi
Ncell of Nepal works throughout except at higher altitude. Wifi is available in every Tea house costing around NPR 250-500. Post Namche Bazar Everest Link wifi is available for NPR 2500 (unlimited throughout the trek to and from Namche Bazar).
Things to carry
Sleeping bag (-15 C), Day pack, Trekking pole (1 or 2), Thermals (2 pairs), Trekking pants (2), Fleece Balaklava, Fleece shirt, Gloves, Vaseline, Sunscream, Zandu Balm/Vicks, Strepcils, Windcheater jacket (take it on rent in Kathamandu), Gumcha (raincoat), Woolen socks (3-4 pairs), Sanitizer, Toilet papers (2 rolls), Thermas flask (1), Water bottle (Two 1L or one 2 L), 2-3 T-shirts, Hat, Trekking shoes, Sunglasses, Head Torch (1), Knee caps, Ankle tapes (helpful while descending), Energy bars, Chocolates, Regular medicines, Water purification tablets (50), Diamox (15-20) and Power bank.
This is enough for today. This is the detailed information about the trek. If you need anything else, please be free to call me or message me.
In upcoming articles, I start sharing my experiences - don't miss them. You'll get to laugh a lot and imagine a bit of exhaustiveness and experience. Moreover, I am sure it will tempt you to do Mt Everest Base Camp.
-SB
Great and kudos to you!
ReplyDeleteI can see another temptation coming along ;-)